Showing posts with label Ghost Towns. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ghost Towns. Show all posts

Saturday, August 2, 2008

Wrapping Up Adventure One View at a Time - Day 6 through 9

Axel Rose belting out "Knocking on Heavens Door" on 101 The Fox, Kansas City's classic rock station...my paid for 2001 POS Chevy Cavalier rattling with the beat through it's cracked dashboard as I push it up to 80mph on I-29...my mind set on the ultimate end goal..a night on the couch with nothing to do, vegging my mind away in front of the boob tube...I'm going home!!!

The trip from the airport last night wasn't fast enough. I had just landed from three days at our Dallas office, which is a short trip, but the end to a long two weeks of travel. Kathy and I had just wrapped up our vacation Tuesday, and didn't get home until after 11pm. My flight to Dallas was the next morning at 6am, so I really didn't consider it being home...Might as well have been another Super 8 stop over. I was finally coming home though, at least for the next two weeks. As I made the exit from I-29 to 635, getting ever so closer to the Kansas border, my mind started sifting through the last few days of our Ghost Town adventures.

We got up early again last Friday, preparing to leave our new friend Albert and his beautiful cabin just off the continental divide deep in the wilderness of Montana. Our original plan was to shoot up north of there to Glacier National Park, but a couple of days at Alberts brought back some sanity and we realized we must slow our trip down for a while, and take some easy days back to Jackson Hole Wyoming. So we relaxed that morning with Albert's freshly ground espresso, chatted the morning away while Albert cooked up another great breakfast, this time fried waffles...ummmmmm.... took some pics for prosperities sake and hit the road toward Missoula.

Our plan was to backtrack down Highway 12, then down I-90 a short ways to Deer Lodge as our first stop. Home to the Old Montana Prison Museum, this was a great side trip to all the ghost town adventures, getting a good feel for life behind bars in a prison that was active for 100 years starting in 1871. Kathy proclaiming as we toured the cell blocks "Remind me to never kill you, I wouldn't want to wind up in a place like this!" Thanks babe, I know the trips been a long one, but it's nice to know you need a reminder ;).

After the prison adventure and a tour through another old west museum, we hit the road again back up I-90 with a just a few more ghost towns on the way, including Montana's first gold discovery at what's now called Gold Creek. Not a lot left there, and you really had to hunt for signs of yesteryear. After finally finding a pond with some old mining equipment in it, we set our sites for the treat of the day, Garnett.

This ghost town is one of Montana's best preserved and least visited, and is kept up by the BLM and a preservation society. On both public and private land, they won't let you drive into this town, but they have adequate parking just up the hill overlooking the town, and the short hike in is well worth the price of admission. They have plenty of buildings still with contents on display, including a large hotel and general store. We took our time going through most of the buildings that were open, and really enjoyed the history. Signs outside each building that told you about the proprietors and how the town rose then fell as most mining towns did. On the other side of the parking lot there's another hiking trail to take you to remants of the actual mining. It's only .2 miles and it was an easy hike into the past, with several interesting things to see.


By that time it was already getting later in the day than we wanted so off we went to our stop for the night in Missoula. Our last three days of the trip would take us down highway 93, west on 75 into Idaho. Saturday was full of beautiful scenic drives, but by this time in the trip it was just another mountain and trees. Lot's of historic places to see along the Salmon River Scenic Byway, including Gibbonsville Idaho. Not a complete ghost town with at least 100 residents still there, but we found the cemetery interesting. Sure it was historic, but it was a recent headstone that caught Kathy's eye. A husband and wife..each side of the stone showing when they came and left the world, each plot with a mound showing that someone was buried there, but flowers only on the husbands side. On closer inspection Kathy found that the husband died December 20, 2005, but the wife's marker showed December 20, 2008....wait, what's today? This interesting stop kept our minds occupied for a while as we moved on down the road.

The rest of our day would take us on a side trip along the Salmon river through some gorgeous country down to Shoup, then backtrack to 93 for our stop in the town of Salmon. Didn't have any hotel reservations, and there were only 3 or 4 to choose from, but we got lucky and landed at one right at the edge of town by the river. It's a crap shoot sometimes with locally owned hotels, and this one was on the edge. Good enough though for a nights rest, with the river right outside our door.

I'll attempt to brief this up on the next two day and just say "welcome to Idaho". Oh there was beauty, but there was also desolation. After a side trip just south of Challis on scenic highway 75, into the Yankee mining district and several more places of yesteryear, which by the way includes a wonderful information center that is a must stop for any ghost towner, we started getting into area's of the state that you could tell were no-mans land. It stayed pretty much mountainous around us as we traveled more of a valley through Ketchum (lots of highway traffic this Sunday as people must of been coming home from the Salmon River recreational areas), finally hitting more flat roads and feilds as we turned onto Highway 20 to our next overnight stay in Arco. Along the way you run into Craters of the Moon National monument. This area home to a lava field that covers thousands of acres and made for some interesting stories of pioneers trying to make their way through. It was an unexpected site in western Idaho, and a nice change of scenery to wrap up the say.

After a great stop in Arco it was finally Monday, our last day of travel. This day would take us through the farming areas toward Idaho Falls, then out to Swan Valley and back north a bit on highway 31 into Victor and Driggs. Our main goal of the day was the Grand Tetons, since our first day 9 days ago didn't provide the time needed to explore the area. Quirky Kathy of course was also on the search for one specific photo opp that she had seen on several post cards. A giant potato on the back of a flat bed truck. Yep, that's my wife, and I love her dearly. I was convinced she was crazy until just outside of Driggs I saw the truck. It was the Spud Drive In theater. Of course it wasn't a real potato, but it made Kathy happy that we found it. I'm sure she will be selling the fruits of our search soon on her Rocky Mountain General Store.

We were definitely through with the flat lands by this time, and going up into the mountain range just east of the Tetons, coming into Wyoming on highway 33. Incredible drive that finally brought us to a point overlooking Jackson Hole. Coming down the mountain we ventured off on to highway 390 toward Teton Village, then up into the Grand Teton National Park. It was a beautiful day and there were plenty of vacationers venturing the same way. This entry is a gateway not only into the Tetons but also Yellow Stone if you had the mind to keep heading north. Our goals weren't that lofty though so we targeted Jenny Lake as our deepest point into the park.
Along the way there are several pull outs and trail heads for visitors to stop and soak in the incredible views. It was at the first major pull out that we saw first hand how absolutely rediculous we humans are when it comes to animals. Cars and RV's packed the pull out, and several people, cameras in hand and kids in tow were running across the road in front of traffic to a river bridge. My immediate thought was that it was a bear maybe? I mean, why else would people risk life and limb, leaving their children behind them as they run to catch a quick pic of nature. I was duped into the frenzy, so I carefully pulled into one of the few remaining parking spots and joined the crowd at the other side of the road. At least 50 people by now pointing to the river bank, I draw up our new video camera thinking I was about to get something spectacular on film. Panning left to right as the gawkers pointing fingers moved I see it...a young moose drinking from the river. Hmmm...is there a bear or mountain lion about to eat the moose...no, it's just a moose. I guess I should have been more excited, but come on people, all this for a moose?

After soaking in the tranquil water of Jenny Lake and taking plenty of footage of the thousands of year old Ice still on top of the Tetons, we made our way back through the now even larger crowd at the side of the road still watching the moose almost an hour later, and into the bumper to bumper traffic of Jackson Hole. When we finally reach the Super 8 in Jackson, choking on the $200 dollar a night bill, we settled in for our last night before heading home.

I've already written about our experience with United Airlines the next day, the only thing I missed was that by the time we reached Kansas City on Frontier airlines, one of our bags was still in Jackson Hole, the other somewhere in Denver International Airport. Fine, I didn't need my deodorant anyway, despite the fact I was up at 4am Wednesday morning to hop another flight to Dallas on business. Luckily the Hilton Garden Inn up the road from the Dallas office had what I needed to get by.

No ghost towns on my agenda for quite a while. Finally home for the next two weeks before making business trips to Brazil, two trips to Dallas and Amsterdam all in a 4 week period. For now I'm enjoying the memories of a wonderful vacation and incredible adventure through yesteryear. Be sure to read all about the old west towns we visited on Kathy's blog and of course Legends of America. In the meantime I'll snap a few while out of the country and share, but it just isn't the same as this incredible nation we call home.

Saturday, July 19, 2008

Wyoming's a long way from DIA

I can see the rockies in the distance. There's still snow on some of the peaks, but the view isn't that spectacular from this vantage point. In the fore ground, United Airlines has a plane at about every terminal, with B37 right in front of me. The fact that I'm posting a blog from the Smoking Lounge in Denver International Airport should tell you that something has gone awry in our travel plans today.

This mornings flight from KC to Jackson Hole Wyoming through Denver was supposed to be an early one. Kathy had saved a couple hundred bucks booking the 6:20am departure, but I think next time we'll kick in the extra to sleep in. Being excited about our upcoming adventure to Wyoming, Montana and parts of Idaho, I was up until almost 11 last night in anticipation. Then for what ever reason I was up and at'em at 2:30 this morning. Still had some packing to do, and needed some time to geek and get caffeinated anyway.

We finally got out the door and to the airport by 5:15, but we were greated with a very long, and slow moving line at the United counter. Don't know for sure what happened, but anyone with a connecting flight through Denver were being guided away from the check in kiosks and forced to wait. Bottom line, we didn't get out of KC until 7:45 this morning, and of course missed our connecting flight.

So, here we are connected to the fabulous wi-fi at DIA, drinking our tea and pop and hording a corner of the Smoking Lounge near an electrical outlet. Gonna be here until 1:30 this afternoon, so plenty of time to count the number of Southwest flights continually taking off while United planes still perch at the gates in front of us.

This changes our itinerary for the day a bit. Not a lot of time to spend in Jackson Hole on the front end, and we are going to try to push for Lander Wyoming by tonight. The Grand Tetons are on the way, so don't know for sure we'll make it. Lots of Ghost Towns on the agenda for Sunday in the Lander area, before we head up toward Cody. This is definitely going to be an adventure filled 10 days...but we have to get out of the Smoking Lounge first.

Wednesday, April 23, 2008

Utah Adventure Part 1 - Ever Changing Landscapes

The coffee pot at this Super 8 Motel in Green River is a bit distracting, noisily brewing our second pot of 'in room' java. It's a distraction that Kathy and I are enjoying however considering we didn't have any coffee at the Super 8 in Kanab yesterday, not even from the fancy brew station in the office. And coffee is definitely needed before starting out on our next portion of this Utah Adventure.

Our journey together wouldn't begin until Friday. I had just wrapped up a successful week with my real job in Radio Automation at the National Association of Broadcasters Convention in Las Vegas. It was a fantastic show, with our product winning a 2008 Cool Stuff Award from Radio World. Kathy had met me at the Hilton Wednesday night and was experiencing some cool stuff of her own, including a call from OK Magazine with one of the most unusual requests she has come across yet. Wish I could write all the details here, but I gotta wait until after the April 23rd edition of OK Magazine hits news stands. Be sure to check back for all the details next week. She also had some interesting experiences with the local folk at Good Springs Nevada, but I'll let her tell that tale in her own blog.

Vegas to Zion....

Both of us on a good role, and excited to get out of Vegas, we hit the road Friday morning up I-15 toward Utah, taking an unrelated side stop at St George to see a co-worker of mine. Beautiful second home for my California friend, and experiencing the land scape I could understand why many from that state would migrate there. It was only the beginning of our true appreciation for this incredible state however, as being Kansans I don't think we realized the incredible beauty that Utah has to offer.

From St. George we shot up past Leeds and turned off on on State 17 through Toquerville, where just a short ways out we experienced our first quirkiness in Ash Creek. Kathy gets excited over some of the strangest things, so it was no surprise she would be forcing me into a u-turn as soon as we passed the Shoe Tree. Yes, a tree full of shoes hanging by their strings. I know, exciting stuff huh. Keep in mind I'm traveling with a woman that wants to buy land, create a road on it called PP Highway, and put a bottle out house at the end. A little further up the road after turning off on State Highway 9, we were stopping again at Virgin Utah, and Kathy being Kathy just had to get a picture of herself standing below the sign. She offered to take mine in return, but I didn't find the notion as flattering, considering I turn 40 this August (Steve Carell reference).


We almost missed our first targeted Ghost Town. Grafton is hidden off the road near Rockville, and if you blink you'll miss the sign toward the east edge of Rockville that points you there. You can tell that the area is an artists haven, with beautiful landscapes and the towering cliffs of Zion National Park nearby. There are still several structures from the 1800's settlement, including a church that appears to be well maintained. While we were there we spotted a local painter taking advantage of a gorgeous blue sky day, capturing a small, luscious green field and cozy little home perched at the edge valley in the shadows of the cliffs nearby. Definitely a good stop for ghost town enthusiast's and those just dreaming of a beautiful place to live.


After Grafton and Rockville, we reached Springdale and crossed into Zion National Park. Travelers should note you have to pay to travel this highway through the park, but it's worth every penny of the $25 admission (2008 rates). Huge monolithic red cliffs carved over millions of years that made us immediately feel small and insignificant in the grand scheme of earths life. Awed at the beauty, then amazed at the ingenuity of workers back in the late 1920's who completed a mile long tunnel through one of the cliffs, allowing visitors to pass to the other side and beyond into the next valley below. It would be our first National Park on this trip, and just a teaser for the views to come.

Only Dummies speed through Kanab....



After leaving the park we turned off Highway 9 back south toward Kanab on State Highway 89. We probably would have turned north, but looking at the maps we didn't get a warm and fuzzy feeling about any other places to stay within reach that late in the day. Kanab is a quaint little town, but large enough to offer several choices of hotels. Home to the Kanab Movie Ranch, several westerns have been filmed here, from "The Outlaw Jose Wales" to "The Lone Ranger". We made sure to get a feel of the town, traveling all the way through to make sure we wouldn't miss anything.

On the other side of town we passed one of the local sheriffs officers sitting on the side of the road. Being my friendly self I thought about waving, but then realized something was a 'off' in his demeanor. "I think that's a dummy!" My proclamation sounding unsure as we made our U-turn back into town. Kathy now insisting that I pull up beside the cruiser so she can get a pic, while my mind racing to prepare questions to ask the officer in case I was mistaken. I wasn't...it was a dummy sitting with his eye slightly turned toward his side mirror, giving one the impression as you passed by that he was closely monitoring your movements. "I guess that's one way to save the tax payer!" Now giddily amused at our find, we head back to the main intersection, ready to turn East to explore the rest of the town. At the other end we passed by another officer on the side of the road, and Kathy was already squawking for me to slow down again...at least until we saw him turn his head. Enough of that quirkiness, we got a room and called it a night.

If you ever go through Kanab, make sure to stop and eat at Houston's Trails End. Talk about your hometown goodness with a touch of Old West flare! The waitresses wear gun holsters to keep their pen and tickets handy, and greet you with a darling smile. And the food, oh my the food...I had a Spanish Omlet that morning that could have been my only meal of the day. Stuffed with all that you would expect, then add in a special seasoned taco meat...YUM YUM. Just thinking about it, I may have to go find myself a snak before finishing this blog...I'm hungry all over again.

Kanab to Green River...Are we on another Planet?

After finishing off a great breakfast at Houstons, we traveled north on 89, then East on Highway 12. First on our agenda that morning was Bryce Canyon National Park, a must see attraction into the weird wonders of mother natures force. Carved out of the sides of a Canyon, huge spiral columns of red rock give the appearance of giant stilagmites as you peer over their incredible beauty toward the valley below. Looks like the National Park calls them Hoodoos, but what ever they are, I had no idea we had such enormous beauty in Utah. There are lots of hiking trails through the hoodoos, so if you're in shape and want an adventure, this is a great stop. It will cost you another $25 (2008 rate) to get into the park. Kathy had the foresight to purchase an Annual National Parks pass ($80- 2008 rate) back at Zion, so we were covered.

After Bryce, we started back down into the valley below to check out some Ghost Towns near Cannonville. All that remains really is a cemetery and a couple of old, falling down houses that used to be Georgetown. This was also the first time we noted how desolate and unwelcoming the landscape was in this part of Utah. I couldn't imagine how anyone could live off this land, though the beauty that surrounds it is nice. Very dry, dusty and overall seems to be unsupporting of life back in the Old West...I guess there could have been more water back then, but it's not there anymore, and neither are the Ghost Towns we were out to seek.

Continuing on Highway 12 through Henryville, the road changes to "A Journey Through Time Bye-Way". This stretch to Escalante was just unreal. The grey rock and dirt that cover parts of the trip are a sharp contrast to the bright red columns of Bryce Canyon, and you almost have the feel you have been launched to the moon. It's the strangest landscape we'd seen on this journey, and a great place to "drive through".


We made another stop in Boulder to see the Anasazai Indian Village State Park. Nice little museum and relatively recent discovered ruins mark the most northern evidence of the Anasazai race in America. Don't expect Mesa Verde here, but if you are an Native American history buff, it's a good stop. We couldn't stay long as we still had plenty of Utah to cover, so on up Highway 12 we went, turning east on Highway 24 to our next target, Capital Reef National Park and the Ghost Town of Fruita.

Now this was right up Kathy and I's alley. The drive to the park was nice I guess, but inside was more incredible views of the Monolithic Red cliffs, with a beautiful green valley that was home to many until the 1950's. Fruita's economy appeared to be dominated by Cherry Orchards, and several building's have been well maintained for visitors to catch a glimpse of what life was like.

While stopped at one of the historic buildings we spied a barn off the side of the road with a couple of horses milling about. I thought it would be a good picture opportunity to get Kathy petting one of them, so I called one over. It seemed eager enough to greet us, but as soon as Kathy reached out to pet it, the horse bit her arm. It was just a nip, but made Kathy re-think what she believed was her natural animal magnetism.

Just beyond Fruita is a scenic drive that takes you along the path of the pioneers. It's a slow go, and will cost you $10 (2008 rate), or National Parks Pass, but a good journey back in time eventually through a Gorge that towers above you closely on each side. We almost felt claustrophobic in some places, but the incredible surroundings were enough to push on. At the end of the road you park and hike through the canyon another mile or so to see an authentic Pioneer Register carved into the canyon walls. There's also a couples of Petroglyph's from ancient Indians along the way that give you a real since you've stepped back in time. For us, definitively worth the hike.

By this time Kathy and I are worried about where we are going to stay the night. Our travel plans take us on northeast toward Green River, however it's late enough to call it a day in Hanksville. As we exit the park, the landscape changes yet again, becoming more desolate as we move on, and while I'm sure Hanksvilles a nice place, we didn't get the feeling there would be any Pizza delivery, much less wireless internet. So on to Green River we went, up 24 to I-70, then a jog east to Green River.

Next on the agenda, more incredible Utah beauty in State and National Parks, then some more of what we really came to Utah for....Ghost Towns of the American West.

Sunday, April 13, 2008

The Vegas Launch Pad

As I stare out my hotel window a block off the strip, I can see the lights of the Old Vegas, still shining, but maybe not as bright as they once were. 12 stories up in the Las Vegas Hilton, I peer to the left and see the New Vegas, it's neon seemingly brighter, beckoning in it's Disney like, yet corporate way for me to leave the comfort of my room and venture into their fantasy world of constant bells and chimes, begging for me to stick in that next $20 bill with the false promise of riches as a reward.

It's 3am. Back home in Kansas City I would still be dreaming...jumbled thoughts racing at 'rem' speed, on the verge of the magic moment where the days revelation, quickly to be forgotten, brings me out of blissful rest. Not today. Not in Vegas. Here I wake early, trouble finding rest for my weary mind as anticipation of the week ahead works to a frenzy. It's quickly becoming a yearly tradition, this restless dance that promises adventure and memories abound.

For the past several years, each April I travel to sin city as part of my wonderful career in Radio Broadcasting. It's the annual National Association of Broadcasters Convention, bringing thousands of visitors from around the world to see the latest innovations in Television and Radio. Doesn't really mean a whole lot to those not in the industry, but for some companies it's make or break for their products. At first, for me, it was a nice distraction from the daily office routine. A chance to meet many of the clients I'd only visualized through the other end of a phone line. And they never look they way they sound...the guy with the deepest and ballsiest voice is usually the 5'6" scrawny disc jockey who, when speaking, appears almost cartoonish with a voice that could never match their physic. The whole Vegas experience quickly became routine after only a couple of years, and it was almost robotic how I prepared my mind for the four days of standing on the show room floor, almost losing my voice, preaching the gospel of our latest Radio Automation software.

That all changed when I met Kathy, and my travels to Vegas took on a new dimension through Legends of America. For her, it was the perfect staging area for searching out ghost towns and history of the American West. She makes it a point to coordinate her trip so that she meets me here in Vegas about a day before I'm finished with the convention. Travels close to Vegas while I wrap up work, then takes me on a longer adventure as soon I'm done. In 2006, we traveled down to northern areas of Arizona, spending some time at the Grand Canyon and concentrating efforts for her in depth work on Route 66. It was a nice trip, but by then the whole Route 66 trek was becoming old hat for me. I think it was Kathy's 2nd or 3rd round on the Mother Road, making sure to document each and every detail of those out of the way places that once thrived before the Interstate stole away their life's breath.

Last year she changed things up a bit. Instead of meeting me in Vegas, she flew into Phoenix. Spent a couple of days traveling northern Arizona visiting some very interesting 'way out of the way' ghost towns of the Old West. As soon as the NAB dog and pony show was over, I met her there and we started making our way south. Once we got through Tucson and started down I-19, I quickly realized just how south we were. Border Patrol agents in green and white Home Land Security trucks dotting the road every few miles as we moved in closer to Nogales on the Mexico border.

The real adventure began when we veered off the interstate, out to seek our featured destination of the day, Ruby Arizona. After about a mile on the state highway it occurred to me. "I'll just bet we see some illegal immigrants sneakin in on this trip"... The words still hanging in the air of our rented Jeep when out of the corner of my eye I caught a small group of men running through the brush just a few yards from the road. Being raised in the Texas Panhandle, then living in Kansas for so long, it caught me by surprise. I mean, think about it..how often do you see a group of men running through desert brush, then all simultaneously hitting the deck as soon as they spot you. I didn't know how to react, so I went with my first instinct and quickly put on the brakes as I declared "Like those right there!"

Now, I know I'm the one who stopped, but as Kathy started turning on her camera and moved toward the door handle, a since of panic hit that told me I should hit the gas as quickly as I hit the brake. "Wait! I've got to get a picture of this" Kathy said, as each man peered up like prairie dogs then quickly ducked back down. Too late, my chicken shit ass was out of there, not wanting to stick around for the spectacle and hoping that just one of those Homeland Security trucks would appear out of thin air. As we built up distance between us, Kathy could see them jumping the road, almost seeming to laugh with glee as some kid would do playing hide and seek. It should have been our cue to be more prepared, and think through where we were heading, but we were focused on history, and Ruby was a Gold Mine.

We soon left our nicely paved State Highway, for the dirt and rock of a State Road. How they could call this a State Road was beyond me, aren't their rules for what qualifies? There were places washed out that I would never dare travel in my car, but we anticipated this and the Jeep made it just fine. Along the way we would see milk jugs of water placed along the side of the road, we assumed for the immigrants passing through. But as far as seeing any more, the hills of southern Arizona would shield them from our quizitive view.

We finally reached Ruby, and it was worth the effort. The once thriving mining town had a rich history, including bandits, murder and justice. We could even feel the ghostly presence of occupants past as we toured the abandoned school house, and had a wonderful time hearing the stories told by the lone occupant, hired by the lands owner to safe keep the towns historic treasures. By the time we were done, I was ready for more stable ground though, and glad to be heading to the hotel in Nogales.

Nogales it self has a great history, but that wasn't our focus. The next days travel started early as we had a busy schedule traveling along the border, seeing more ghost towns once thriving on Arizona's mining opportunities back in the late 1800's. Towns like Harshaw and Washington Camp that would delight Kathy for days digging up stories of yesteryear. The plan was to stick as close to the border as possible, traveling down some pretty desolate back roads at a snails pace, dragging out what was probably a 70 mile trip over toward Bisbee, to a day long adventure.

Kathy and I, still in our gh0st town bliss, were ignorant to the danger we were putting ourselves in. We finally realized just how much danger when after a long stretch without seeing a single soul, we happened upon five border patrol vehicles. Their watchful eyes as we passed by should have been enough to tell us we shouldn't be there, and as one of the agents pulled in behind us, thoughts of being interrogated raced through my mind. He never 'pulled us over', just kept a distance behind as we made our way toward more abandoned ruins. As we finally stopped to take pictures, the agent slowly made his way beside the jeep and stopped. "What are you folks up to out here?" His eyes moving toward the back of the jeep, then landing on Kathy in the passenger seat...her straw cowboy hat pitched back with a silly grin on her face as she held a map up declaring "Ghost Town Huntin!" The agents eyes seemingly relieved as he quickly sized us up as tourists and didn't bother getting out of his truck. "We normally don't get visitors like you back here. Usually their too scared"...."Scared of what?" I retorted, trying to imagine what would be so bad, other than a few illegal immigrants crossing our path. "Drug smugglers mainly", the agent's voice rang out with a tinge of amusement at just how naive we were.

It hadn't even crossed our mind. You hear about it all the time in the news, but for what ever reason we were so caught up in our adventure, we never stopped to think about the real danger of running into less desirables in the middle of a drug transaction. People who wouldn't think twice about shooting us on the spot, or stealing our Jeep, leaving us deserted, miles away from any civilization. Needless to say, Kathy and I didn't stick around long, and soon we were back on our way to Bisbee, thankful for the reminder that ghost town hunting should be better thought out.

The rest of our trip was fantastic. Catching the sites of Tumbstone, Bisbee and many other notable Old West main stays. The trip wasn't long enough though, and Kathy and I have said more than once that we need to hit that area of Arizona again. It gave her plenty of writing material though, and both of us some great memories.

This year, Kathy's meeting me in Vegas again. She'll arrive Wednesday, day before my work is wrapped up. Plans on hitting a ghost town or two she didn't get on the last trip nearby, then Thursday doing Route 66 again out to Barstow and back. Friday, we're heading out for Utah, where we will spend the next several days visiting places of yesteryear and digging up history. I'm sure it will be another great adventure, with plenty to blog about here in the days to come. In the meantime, it's daylight now, and time for me to come back to reality. Vegas awaits to tempt my wallet.

Friday, February 22, 2008

Mogollon to El Paso via Shakespeare - New Mexico Pt 2


Southwest Airlines has changed their "cattle herd" ways a bit and actually started assigning 'positions' in line. It's a better process than before, since everyone in groups A, B and C aren't all standing in their respective lines at the same time, instead just a specific group and positions. Poles mounted along the line tell you where to stand, and you don't line up until they call your group and position. Of course, this is a bit confusing the first time you use it and, while Kathy and I were on our way home from New Mexico, I heard a woman frantically trying to find seat A-56 on the plane. I felt for the poor woman, but I was just too tired to do much else. We made it back to the El Paso airport about 3pm this past Tuesday, both of us thankful for the great adventure in New Mexico, but even more thankful we were going home.

Sunday's Mogollon Voyage

We made a wise choice on Sunday and decided that we had pushed ourselves hard enough. Staying at the Econolodge in Silver City two nights instead of one gave us an opportunity to relax that morning, then pick just one 'must see' ghost town not too far away. Kathy agreed to drive, since I was still recovering from Saturdays long trek through the Black Range mountains. However, If I had known what was in store, I probably would have passed on her offer. The drive up state highway 180 from Silver City started simple enough. It wasn't really mountainous, more large hills than anything, with the continental divide just outside of town. We could see the Mogollon Mountains from the road though and knew we would be heading into them in no time.

Taking the turn just north of Glenwood toward the town of Mogollon, I got the real since this wasn't such a good idea. Signs proclaiming that the road should not be traveled at night, warnings about limited snow plowing, and the fact that the town it self doesn't open to tourists until Summer (and then only on the weekends), made my stomach twirl with anticipation. I know, I know...I'm a control freak when it comes to whose driving, but if you drove with Kathy while doing 50 in a 25mph zone, in the mountains, your asshole would pucker too. She wouldn't be that brave this time though, as it only took the first curve to put her in caution.

We didn't see a lot of it at first, the sun doing a good job of melting most of the ice and snow in our path, however as we inched our way up in the shade of the mountain the danger became more evident. Longer and longer patches of snow and ice with only a couple of tire tracks to show not many had passed through here since the storm. That was when we noticed the road getting narrower, and wouldn't you know it, there was SUV coming down at us as well. They stopped above us at a curve, the road between a steep grade covered in snow. Kathy didn't blink as she kept her pace going up. "What are the rules of the road in situations like this" I pondered nervously. "Oh, my brother told me once, but I can't remember, bottom line is I have no place else to go", Kathy's voice full of determination that it was the SUV's burden to find a spot and let us pass.

I know she was only going 5mph, but it seemed like we could slip off the edge any moment as she inched past the SUV. The passenger looking at me quite curiously at the panicked look on my face as our side mirrors came within a hair of each other. I'm sure they could read my lips as I proclaimed over and over "Need to move over more, more, moRE, mORE, MORE!" Speaking of pucker factor, I think I sucked in half the seat before we made it past. Kathy never flinched, leaving me with the knowledge I have a ways to go to catch up in testosterone levels. Luckily we met only one more vehicle on the way back down into the valley where Mogollon hid, and Kathy did the right thing, found a spot to pull off, returning balance to our karma.

Pulling into the edge of town we immediately knew this was worth the effort. Mogollon had seen it's share of disasters, from floods to fires, but somehow this quaint little ghost town had been preserved well for adventure seekers like us. We spent quality time taking pictures and enjoying views. There were a few residents who obviously run the shops during tourist season, but for the most part it was just us. Kathy, being a lover of old cemeteries, decided we would trek up the side of the mountain again to find Mogollon's. Fortunately for me the road was more like a dried up creek bed, and Jeep or not, it was beating us so badly she finally turned around.
I strongly recommend Mogollon to any Old West Ghost Town lover...just do it in the Summer.

Saving Shakespeare

Monday morning we headed out early again. The plan was to head south from Silver City on state highway 90 to Lordsburg, where just outside of the city is probably our best adventure of the entire trip, Shakespeare. Promoted as "The West's Most Authentic Ghost Town", it's only open for regular tours a weekend or two per month. You can make an appointment, but Kathy and I weren't organized enough to do that this trip. And since it's privately owned by a local rancher, we were resigned to taking pictures from the fence looking in. As we pulled up we encountered a very nice lady getting papers out of her car. I'm so horrible with names, so please pardon the fact I can't remember hers, but she just happened to be acting as secretary to the rancher while doing research for a book she was about to write. The book is going to be on Janaloo Hill, the ranchers wife who had passed away only a couple of years ago. The Hill family has owned the land Shakespeare sits on for years and years, and has preserved it best they can for everyone to enjoy, including some weekends with re-enactments.

After we talked to the secretary and got the Ok to at least get pictures from around the fence line, she went back into the ranch house. It wasn't long however that she came running back out waving us down. "Manny says he wants to meet you" she said, surprising us both as we never imagined being able to enter on an off day. Manny Hough, Janaloo's husband, is a one of a kind character, much like his wife was before she passed. Rough, rugged cattle rancher with a deep love of Shakespeare and the area, and could tell you anything you wanted to know about it's history. While some historians may discount his knowledge of the Butterfield Stage going through Shakespeare, Manny was able to explain it quite well, telling how the stage moved several times due to water quality, etc, and that looking at just one route during a three year period didn't mean it hadn't also come through his backyard.

There were stories of Billy the Kid along with other outlaws and lawmen who had made their way through. And when Manny spoke of his wife, his eyes sparkled with memories of great times keeping Shakespeare alive, and Janaloo's lasting impression on not only his family, but the entire area around Lordsburg. You could also tell he was doing everything he could to make sure the history stayed alive for years to come. Shakespeare's already a National Historic Site, but Manny had tried previously to make it a New Mexico State Park. The state was definitely interested, but the demands were too much for Manny to except. So he's spending time talking with historical societies and the like, laying the ground work to keep the ghost town from returning to the desert.

Manny, his secretary, and a volunteer ranch hand (Jim?, again beg my pardon), were all very kind to Kathy and I that day. The ranch hand opened up several of the building so we could take a peek, and we wound up spending a little over an hour at Shakespeare, walking away with a real since of history and gratitude for their incredible hospitality. We could never thank them enough, but Kathy's sure to beef up her story of Shakespeare and send more people their way. Check their schedule, or call for an appointment...this Ghost Town, even more so than Mogollon, is a MUST SEE!

Steins to El Paso via Highway 9

Steins is another ghost town just west of Lordsburg near the Arizona border. It was closed too, but it appeared to be more shut down than just closed. So Kathy just snapped a few photos and we were back on the road, this time heading for our final destination, El Paso. Of course, we couldn't do I-10 back through New Mexico. Kathy had to make it another one of those Mexican border adventures for us, so we headed south to Animas and hit Highway 9 east.

No more mountain driving, that was for sure. Just mile after mile of New Mexico desert. About half way between Animas and Hachita I began to notice a silver spot in the sky off in the distance. I watched it closely and realized it wasn't moving at all. Memories of my horse adventure the first day of our trip came back and I fought the urge to say anything. But after another few miles of watching it I finally spoke up. "Kathy, is that a plane or a UFO?".

Kathy didn't say much about it this time, but humored me after reaching Hachita and tried to get a shot of it. It was still too far away, but we were heading that direction. Highway 9 after Hachita jogs south to the border of Mexico. We could tell as we got closer due to the increased presence of border patrol and what appeared to be National Guard. They had these mobile lookout towers stationed every few miles, and the Home Land Security vehicles were perched in the brush beside the road in between. My spot in the sky started getting bigger, and Kathy and I soon realized it was an aerial surveillance device floating high in the sky. I bet the 'aliens' didn't think it was a UFO.

Columbus, south of Deming, is home to Pancho Villa State Park. This is the area where the only foreign army invasion of the US took place, and it's chalk full of interesting stories of the battles between the US and Mexico. It's also the first place where the US launched air strikes back in 1918, and the park it self is a good stop, worth the $5 per vehicle for those curious about our early dealings with our neighbors to the south. We stayed for a while and then decided it was time to wrap up the day and head into El Paso.


Tuesday morning we got another early start and did the walking tour of downtown El Paso. Great history there too, but many of the buildings they point out are hard to imagine back in the day due to the retail shops they house. We also took time to head south east along the Mission Trail, where missions that have been active since the 1600's provide even more history of the Spanish culture in west Texas. We were going to take in the Fort Biggs Museum near the airport, but the line to get passes into the active military base was long and our time was short.

It was a wonderful trip to New Mexico and the El Paso region, and Kathy and I both decided it was probably our best "Ghost Towning" trip yet. We are also glad to be back in Kansas City, despite the fact we left 70 degree (F) weather behind for 20 degrees when we landed. Kathy's busy writing up the history of all these places and posting her chosen pics, so be watching the What's New page over the next few weeks. In the meantime, it's back to the routine corporate world for me. First on the agenda is to plan our next 'vacation', expanding on Legends of America one piece of history at a time.

Sunday, February 17, 2008

Kathy, Billy the Kid and E.T. - New Mexico Pt 1

"What a Tourist"

I'm laying on a soothing pillow top bed, enjoying my first morning of good internet and peaceful quiet since the beginning of this adventure 4 days ago. I have a whole new perspective on Econo Lodge hotels. This one, nestled in the town of Silver City New Mexico, is actually very nice and so far a great place to stay. Of course, I could just feel this way after spending three nights in hotels where at each something wasn't up to par enough to be annoying. Although, I will say, if it wasn't for the cold shower in Riodoso, the Best Western would have ranked higher. I haven't turned the shower on here yet, so I reserve the right to change this paragraph later.

El Paso to Carlsbad

Kathy and I's February adventure to the warmer climates of Southern New Mexico began last Wednesday with a flight into El Paso. Kathy had our trip all mapped out and we would begin by exploring regions East of El Paso, then shoot up toward New Mexico, landing in Carlsbad that night. I get driving duty during most of the trip, since Kathy's on the look out for photo opportunities along the way. I try to help the best I can, but don't have her "eye" for the stuff that makes Legends Of America interesting. Instead, I usually pop of with the unusual.

Like driving up this lonesome Texas highway between I-10 and Carlsbad. The landscape was rugged but beautiful, and we hadn't seen life out on the plains for quite a while. "Hey, there's some cows" I spout off in an effort to show it's not completely desolate. "Well Dave, those are horses, not cows" Kathy retorts with a smug smirk hiding the giggle and the urge to call me a DORK. "Oh, they are horses aren't they" I agree as we get closer and realize it's time for another optometrist visit.

As we approached I watched with great interest how the majestic animals, about 15 of them, just stood there on the hill top without any movement at all. Then by the time we were beside them, I was sure they weren't animals. In fact, they appeared to be statues of horses stationed on the hill top by some rancher with a weird since of humor. "Those aren't even real horses" I called out, amazed that someone would take such care in planting them there. Kathy, looking at them the entire time I was, agreed that something was odd. It was too good an opportunity to pass up, so I quickly put on the brakes and made the u-turn back to the side of the road where we could get some good pics for 'Quirky Texas'. We must of stood there by the side of the road for a good 2 minutes, convinced they were statues of horses, when all the sudden one of them began to walk away. I thought we were going to fall into the ravine laughing so hard. Turns out we are both DORKS.

By the way, the speed limit in Texas State and National Parks is 55 mph, not 76. Found that out the hard way shortly after our horse adventure while going through Guadalupe National Park. Very nice Texas Highway Patrolman did his best to make sure I remember next time I'm in Texas. I think that was about the time we decided to have late lunches with no big dinners the rest of the trip. Gotta make up that couple hundred dollars somewhere along the way. By the time we reached Carlbad I wasn't hungry anyway, just ready for a nice relaxing night at the hotel. Once we got past the diesel engine running right outside our door, and the waves of pot smoke coming from the room next to us, we finally dozed ready for our next adventure into the world of Aliens.

Carlsbad to Ruidoso via Roswell and Fort Sumner
It was an early start for us Thursday morning, our body clocks still on central time, and we had went to bed by 8 the night before. Skipped Carlsbad Caverns, since both of us had seen them before as kids, and caves weren't really on the agenda this trip. Instead we headed up the road to Roswell, anxious to see Alien memorabilia and all the quirkiness that entails. It really didn't get quirky until we reached the downtown area. Shops on both sides of the street decrying Alien ware, and there on a corner, the UFO Museum and Research Center. For the UFO buff, this museum was great. History abound on the legend of the crash landing near Roswell, from news paper articles to a recording of an actual radio news broadcast talking about the event. There were movie props and maps, all dealing with E.T. and our fascination of the unknown Alien world. For me it was nice side note to the Old West history Kathy and I were really after.

We scooted up the highway from Roswell to Fort Sumner, resting place of Billy the Kid. A lot of history here and Billy was only a small part of it. Fort Sumner was the destination of thousands of Navajo on "The Long Walk", and the State Monument was a wonderful tribute to these displaced peoples, drug from their homes by Kit Carson. Very knowledgable staff and well kept, I would definitely recommend the Fort Sumner State Monument to anyone wanting to get closer to the rich history of our Native past. It's also the place where Billy was shot and killed. In town, a privately owned Billy the Kid Museum houses all kinds of Old West memorabilia, including what is claimed to be Billy the Kids gun. It also houses some really cool early 1900's cars, late 1800's Buggies and every thing you can think of that was involved with living in New Mexico way back when. Since it's privately owned, ran by the son of the original proprietor, you may want to check this out in the next 5 years or so. Don't know what happens when the owners decide enough is enough and hang their hats.

From Fort Sumner to Ruidoso by way of Vaughn and Carrizozo was an interesting drive. Flat lands out of Fort Sumner dotted with a couple of ghost towns for good measure. Then between Vaughn and Carrizozo some small mountains to break the monotony. Actually thought we were going to try to find a place in Carrizozo to stay the night, but since it's more of a spot in the road that pushed us on down to Ruidoso, and into the beautiful South Eastern New Mexico mountains. Found our way to a Best Western, which turned out to be a pretty good stop if it weren't for the cold shower the next morning.

Ruidoso to Socorro and the Billy the Kid Trail

Down State 70, turning at Hondo, the Billy the Kid Trail takes visitors up through Lincoln, where the legend of Billy began. Very nice stop, with knowledgable folk at the museum eager for you to take in the town, see the Court House where Billy escaped, and learn all about the Lincoln County War, of which Billy was a prominent figure. It doesn't take long in Lincoln before you figure out that the Legend of Billy is really just that...Legend. And Legends don't always ring true. In fact, I left Lincoln with the keen sense that Billy was really just an ornery young gun slinger who got caught up in the day and was a hero to some who sided the same. Never the less, Lincoln offered up some good times and is a good place to stop.

Don't bother with Fort Stanton, it's a state run drug rehab facility now and not a lot to see (wouldn't want to get out of the car unless visiting someone you know still living). On down the trail, then back through Carrizozo, back toward Vaughn just a short ways, we cut off to see some 'real' ghost towns. These are the ones abandoned years ago sitting out in the middle of no where on a county dirt road. Our first stop was White Oak, though not a ghost town (probably a hundred or so people still there) it still had some of the structures first built back in the 1800's. Nothing you can tour though and didn't hold our attention very long.


Did I mention I bought a Tom Tom for Kathy this Christmas? Neat little map gadget that so far had made our trip smooth and concise. It was nice knowing how many miles to the next destination, turns up ahead, and all that great stuff. Get ol' Tom off the beaten path though and expect the unexpected. Coming out of White Oaks I did my thing and pointed the wizard toward Jicarilla, a true ghost town up into the hills on roads only ventured by ranchers and history buffs like us. My first clue that Tom Tom wasn't going to help much was when it told me to turn right. Kathy's voice raising "You don't want to go this way". I keep turning responding "I need to go where Tom's telling me too". Kathy now getting a little frustrated saying "Ok, ignore the Dead End sign then". Oh, Ok, guess I'll go left instead of right. It wasn't long before Tom re-routed though and pointed down the path we were on. Then just a few miles up the road, Tom starts sqawkin about a left turn ahead. Slowing down to see the rugged ruts jotting off to the north I decide to listen to Kathy this time and stay on the road. Tom must of done this about another 5 times before we finally reach Jicarilla. Then another two or three times as we made our way down to Ancho. Tom's great though, and at least I could see where we were.

Ancho was pretty ghostly, even though it appeared to have at least one active resident. Ruins of yesterday still sat on the south side of the railroad tracks and there were plenty of photo opportunities to keep us happy. After Ancho it was back down through Carrizozo and then west on state 380 toward Sorocco. Went through the Malpais Lava Beds, and by the Trinity site, or at least the closest you could get to the Trinity site. The area is still off limits to the public despite it's historical value as the site of the first atomic bomb explosion, and it's deep enough into the White Sands Missile Range that you really only get the marker to look at from the highway. There may be something off 380 that you can get more information, however Kathy and I were focused on getting to Socorro, so a pic of the marker was all I got.

Socorro to Silver City (and ghost towns on the side)

Socorro wasn't a destination but just an overnight stay for our next adventure, and man was it a long adventure. We started out down I-25 and cut off to see the old mining towns of Monticello, Winston and Chloride. What made our start special Saturday morning was the snow overnight. The further south on I-25, the whiter the landscape. Not enough to cause us travel problems, but it was enough to transform the desert and surrounding mountains into the perfect "postcard" view. I don't think the camera could capture the beauty we experienced as the sun broke through the clouds and illuminated the snow dusted landscape. We were a little concerned it could change some of our plans, as Winston and Chloride were in higher elevations, but our worries didn't last long as the Sun had everything back to normal within just a couple of hours.

I think the best experience we had on this piece was Chloride. A family with history that goes back years in the ghost town has revived it's past with a museum and a couple other shops. Great treasures from it's boom days, and even greater stories told by someone who has a true love for the area made it a wonderful stop. On the way out, Tom Tom told us to get to our next destination, Hillsboro, we would have to back track to I-25 and head down through Truth Or Consequences. Kathy's all about avoiding the major highways, afraid she's going to miss a bit of history still locked away from the general publics eye. So she decides to explore Tom's feature of "Alternate Routes". Low and behold, the first route that comes up is one that takes us due south, completely avoiding I-25 off to the east.

I knew something was wrong as soon as we were told to turn right. Two ruts that reminded me of the day before near Jicarilla shot off the main dirt county road. Being adventuresome we followed Tom's lead, but only a half mile in we were faced with a steep snow covered grade. Four wheel drive rental Jeep or not, it was a long way to Hillsboro and we both came to our senses and headed back to the interstate. I think we wasted about an hour with that little jaunt (I'm leaving out a lot here, including getting turned around and going by the same house at least 4 times).

Hillsboro was alright. Kathy got her quota pic of me behind bars at an old west jail, and the town had some life to it with artists and other residents keeping up it's quaint mountain town appeal. Kingston, down the road a bit, was a bust. Back in it's boom days it was home to 7000, all there for the mining of course. Now just a few residents remain, and no one that really appears to care about preserving any of its history. By this time it was getting well into the afternoon, and Kathy had us plotted to come through the Black Range Mountains to our next overnight stay in Silver City. There would be a few more short stops along the way, but what I wasn't prepared for was the mountains we had to cross to get there. Emery Pass at 8200 feet was only a few miles from Kingston, but I swear it must of taken an hour to get there. The kind of winding up hill climb that wears the body down. Tensing with each turn and moving 20mph max on a good stretch, by the time we reached the pass I was beat. Problem was we weren't even half way from Kingston to Silver City yet, and there was plenty of mountain driving to go.

It goes without saying that this soothing pillow top bed at the Econo Lodge was the perfect place to rest my mind, still moving from side to side as if perpetually coming through the mountains inch by inch. In fact, after the busy travel schedule of the past few days, Kathy and I have decided to stay here another night. We did get out and adventure today to probably the best ghost town yet, Mogollon. Kathy drove the hour trek up north on state 180, and it was a heart pounding experience getting there. I'll write about that in part two of our New Mexico adventure. For now, I'm getting into the History Channels' "Life After People". A fitting show that truly corresponds with our ghost town adventures. It's amazing what happens to our man made past without us being there.

Tuesday, February 5, 2008

New Mexico Outhouse Adventure

It was early May 2004. Kathy and I were just a little over a year in our relationship, and both of us were brimming with excitement over the prospect of our first vacation together. We had the perfect plan... make it to her mom's in Ulysses down in Southwest Kansas, spend the night there, then head out to her mom's condo in Angel Fire New Mexico the next day. Relax in the Angle Fire/Eagle Nest area for a few days, then travel down south, meet up with Route 66 and head into the Texas Panhandle where we both have family. Kathy had warned me that it would take a while to get there, especially since she planned to do some photography for Legends of America on the way. I didn't mind at all. In fact, I was intrigued with the notion of seeing some history and watching my best friend do her work. By this time she had already written about so many ghost towns and old west legends, I figured this would be a great chance to see how it all came together.

So off we went, down I-70 to the highway 156-Ellsworth cut off, making great time until we discovered our first distraction, Fort Harker. It was a quick side trip, couple of pics, and back on the road. Through Great Bend (an old stomping ground for me back in my days on the radio) continuing down Highway 56 with a stop at Pawnee Rock (and that's exactly what it was, a rock, but with a lot of history and a treasure tale), through Larned, skipping Fort Larned due to the fact we were running out of daylight, then down to Dodge City. Spent some time at Boot Hill but overall I was disappointed. Though the history was there, it was a bit too commercialized if you ask me. Sure, the buildings were cool and all that, but it was definitely no Tombstone. Only spent a couple of hours there before heading off to Ulysses, spent the night, then up and adam for our trek to New Mexico.

Deserted highways and nothing but grassland for miles as we traveled through southeast Colorado. Of course, Kathy had her eyes peeled for picture opportunities. But now she wasn't looking for old ghost towns or historic sites. She was looking for....well, uh...Out Houses. Evidentially this had been an obsession over the previous months, and she had already started collecting quite a few shots. I don't know what troubled me more, the fact that she was on the search for shitters, or the fact that I seemed to step right in and look for them as well. Couple of stops here and there, but not a lot of out houses to see in southeast Colorado. Did manage to get a pic of Kathy working that she wound up using on her about us page. If people only knew what she was taking a picture of (LOL).


The Sanore (San) De Cristo Mountains are gorgeous in May...

Lush green with white snow covered peaks that melt into the clouds as majestic reminders that there's more to life than just wheat fields and city skyscrapers. Just being there was like taking a dip in the fountain of youth, and I immediately felt more relaxed than I had in a long time. Having Kathy there with me didn't hurt either. I could tell she felt right at home, and the tension of her own life seemed to melt away as we rolled past Eagle Nest to Angle Fire. As a child she spent many summers at her grand mothers cabin in Idle Wild, just outside of Eagle Nest. Her brother lives in the area as well, and family still come up every year for the peace and tranquility of the Moreno Valley.

After settling in we wasted no time getting around to exploring and adventuring. Stopped by to see her brother John and his family, took time to go visit her grand mothers cabin, and take pictures of, you guessed it, outhouses. By now though, Kathy had deputized me and my own camera...tasked with the responsibility of getting the perfect angle, looking for the perfect light, achieving the best possible picture of each and every crapper we came across. And oh my god were there crappers! Fancy ones, old ones, funny signs and various shapes. I had no idea just how popular outhouses were until I experienced New Mexico. Actually it was a blast, and by late afternoon, after hiking up trails and checking out the old Klondike Mine, we were ready to stop by the historic Laguna Vista Saloon for a drink to cap it off.

The Guney, as they called it, was built in the late 1800's and to this day is a watering hole of choice for many. Of course, on a Sunday afternoon in the off season, only the locals hang out, which is a great time to get stories and gossip. Lot of history in the Guney, from the painted ladies to some ghostly tales. Burt Clemens, the owner, had as much character as his watering hole did, and we enjoyed the atmosphere. Our visit with him about the history of the Laguna Vista Saloon would later make for a great story on Legends of America. And that story would wind up catching the attention of the David Letterman show, who paid a visit and did a bit on Eagle Nest and the Guney in 2005.

The Enchanted Circle can be romatic....

And as Kathy and I held each other on our make shift dance floor later that evening, swaying to the sound of Garth Brooks "The Dance", my breath was literally taken away by her beauty...by how much I love every part of her soul and mind..and by the high hopes and dreams of where this life was taking us. The remaining time we had in New Mexico was equally as wonderful. We made sure to visit the ruins of what used to be the roaring gold mine settlement of Elizabethtown, then day tripped over to Taos for some window shopping. One of my memories from childhood was a moment in some mountainous area, in a town with a square like Taos. I must have been old enough to begin liking girls, as I remember seeing a couple walking along the square..hand in hand. The look on their face drew my attention, and though I didn't fully understand, I felt a longing to be like them. As Kathy and I strolled along Taos' town square, she gently took my hand, and as I turned to see her face the memories of that day, long ago, poured over me like a warm rain. I wanted the moment to last forever, and in many ways it has. It was the perfect end to a perfect time in New Mexico.

Trekin down to Route 66...

Down from Angle Fire to just south of Las Vegas, NM is an old alignment of the Mother Road that we hooked up with on our way to Texas. Rugged country and plenty of ghost towns dotting the roadside along the way. One of my favorites was Glen Rio, right on the Texas and New Mexico border. I can't really say why, but I was fascinated by how close I-40 replaced the route there, and how Glen Rio still shriveled up and died as a result. Amarillo was our main target of the day though, and we had a ball with the quirky signs, horse statues and of course Cadillac Ranch. In fact, I made Kathy proud and got an incredible shot of the icon near sunset, with a good ol Texas Thunderstorm rolling in the back ground.

We both got to spend some time with family while we were there, but unfortunately didn't get to make the trip back to Kansas City together. I wound up flying out of Amarillo to Mexico City, Mx on business, and Kathy made one, of what would be many, adventures down Route 66 on her way back home. In fact, I think she has traveled at least the Oklahoma portion of the route six times since, and the entire route at least twice. Her work on the Mother Road is probably the most extensive on the web, talking about the out of the way places that once thrived, then faded away with the Interstate. Readers from all over the world have commented, and it surprises me to this day the traffic she gets, from Australia to the UK, all wanting to learn more about the historic trail that went from Chicago to Santa Monica, carrying hopes and dreams along with it.

That trip in May, 2004, would be the first of many "working" vacations with Kathy. It resulted not only in great stories of Eagle Nest and Route 66, but also
in one hell of a "Crapper Saver". Yep, by the time I returned from Mexico, Kathy had loaded up her out house pics in a computer screen saver. In fact, you can download it for free to this day. Luckily for me, it was a passing phase, and Kathy's adventures haven't included outhouses since. Although, she has been on a long kick of getting photos with me in old Jails for some reason. I'll take that over the crapper any day.